Draught proofing

The Warm Homes Plan is set to invest close to £15 billion in improving the UK’s homes to cut energy bills.

For people on low incomes, there’ll be fully funded government support to install draught proofing.

There’ll also be low and zero-interest loans available for homeowners regardless of income.

We’ll update this guide when we know more.

For more information, read our blog on what the Warm Homes Plan means for you.

Draughts refer to unwanted cold air that enters your home through gaps and cracks in the building. Draught proofing is when you block those unwanted gaps.

By not letting too much cold air in at colder times of the year, you’ll use less energy to heat your home. But if your home is already fairly well draught proofed, adding further draught proofing may increase the risk of poor air quality.

Air needs to flow in and out of your house to keep it fresh, dry and healthy.

Ventilation plays in important part in avoiding damp and removing pollutants in the air inside your home. It’s especially important for kitchens and bathrooms. Any rooms with open fires and flues must be adequately ventilated too.

Here are a few things you should not block or seal.

First, you need to find the draught.

Draughts come into your house through gaps and cracks. Look for any obvious gaps: visible light under and around doors and windows is a good clue.

Listen for rattles and whistling noises, especially on very windy days. Take time to feel for moving air around:

• doors
• windows
• floorboards
• beams
• skirting boards
• around pipes that go through the external walls
• stairways
• fireplaces

If you can see curtains moving, it’s a good indicator that you have a draught.

You’ll find draughts at any accidental gap in your home that leads outside. You can block these, but not if the gaps are to rooms where good ventilation is really important, such as:

• Areas where there are open fires or open flues.

• Rooms where a lot of moisture is produced, such as the kitchen, bathrooms and utility rooms.

If you’re confident doing simple DIY tasks, then draught proofing should be quite straightforward. However, some homes (especially older homes with traditional features) will be more difficult to draught proof. This is where you should seek professional help.

Professional draught proofing is likely to save more energy because the installer will know the right materials to use and where to use them. You should also consider hiring a professional draught proofer for older buildings as they often require extra care or specific materials.

If you’re ever unsure about something, then hiring a professional is the sensible thing to do.

You should get three quotes from at least three reputable draught proof installers. TrustMark, the government-endorsed quality assurance scheme, has a list of certified installers you can search to find a tradesperson near you.

For windows that open, buy draught proofing strips to stick around the window frame and fill the gap between the window and the frame. There are two types:

• Self-adhesive foam strips: these are cheap and easy to install but may not last long.
• Metal or plastic strips with brushes or wipers attached: these last longer but cost a little more.

Make sure the strip is the right size to fill the gap in your window. If the strip is too big, it will get crushed, and you might not be able to close the window. If it’s too small, there will still be a gap for the draught to get through.

For sliding sash windows, foam strips do not work well. It’s best to fit brush strips or consult a professional.

For windows that don’t open, use a silicone sealant.

If you’re thinking of replacing your windows, consider installing energy efficient windows.

 There are four main areas to consider when draught proofing a door:

• Keyhole: buy a purpose-made cover that drops a metal disc over the keyhole.
• Letterbox: use a letterbox flap or brush but remember to measure your letterbox before you buy to make sure it fits!
• Gap at the bottom: use a brush or hinged flap draught excluder.
• Gaps around the edges: fit foam, brush or wiper strips like those used for windows.

Internal doors should not be draught proofed. There should be a gap beneath internal doors to make sure you get sufficient air flow throughout your home.

If you don’t use your fireplace, your chimney may be causing unnecessary draughts. There are two main ways to draught proof a chimney:

• Fit a cap over the chimney pot: these are normally made from terracotta. They provide protection from moisture and birds as well as draughts. Prices start at around £150.
• Buy a chimney draught excluder: this is fitted inside the chimney or around the fireplace to help reduce the amount of warm air going up and cold draughts coming in. To make sure you still get enough ventilation, they shouldn’t fully block the chimney. Many chimney draught excluders are removable, so this can be a great option if you also plan to use your fireplace from time to time.

Remember to remove the draught proofing if you decide to light a fire.

Here are some tips for draught proofing different areas of your home.

Draught proofing costs vary depending on how much and which areas of your home you want to draught proof.

Professional draught proofing of windows and doors could cost around £250 for your whole house. DIY draught proofing will be cheaper.

Draught proofing around windows, floors and doors could save you around £85 a year in Great Britain (GB) and £80 in Northern Ireland (NI).

If you have an open chimney, draught proofing your chimney when you’re not using it could save around £60 a year in GB and £60 in NI.

Draught-free homes are comfortable at lower temperatures, so you may be able to turn down your thermostat, saving even more on your energy bills. Turning down your thermostat from 22˚C to 21˚C can save you £90 a year in GB and £80 in NI.

Fully insulating your home is a more effective way of keeping your home warm than draught proofing. Find out what types of insulation there are in our reducing home heat loss hub.

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